Surfing can get pretty intense in and out of the water. We can easily stress over when we are going to be able to jump in the water, how many times in a day, for how long we will surf and who we will surf with.
Social media can also play a big factor in these every day stresses. Have I given a location away of a secret spot, will people like my photo, our products?
I started surfing with a journal my parents bought me. Inside it I would write down tide times for locations, wind direction, swell direction I have surfed different breaks on etc. This starts to build up knowledge of breaks and makes you understand that surfing isn’t about the best pic, the person who got in the most hours in one day, for me it’s about enjoying life, getting the biggest smile and letting go of anything going on in life and experiencing the endless search with friends to find that ‘’perfect’’ wave or belonging.
One of the best things about surfing is talking about it afterwards.
It is easy to complicate things in life and even easier to get caught up in the stress it can throw at you. If you can’t be at the best location at the best time for the tide,,, so what! If it’s raining and on shore,,, so what! Just get in there and enjoy yourself with your mates. Surfing can be fun no matter what. When you let go and have fun you will find a hidden Zen that only surfers can explain.
The hardest thing is to just let go, or is it?
Now stop reading and go surfing.